Baku’s ancient core – a labyrinthine mixture of narrow alleys, repurposed caravanserais (historic inns), hidden mosques, colorful carpet stores, and faux-old houses blending into the city’s centuries-old, sunburnt stone architecture – has been sitting comfortably on UNESCO’s World Heritage list since 2000.
The old part of Baku is isolated from the bustling, ever-expanding modern city – when you enter through the Old City gates, you’ll discover the heritage of the Shirvanshahs, Azerbaijan’s ancient rulers, a collection of timeless hammams (bathhouses), and some of the republic’s most enduring religious sites.
Before you explore everything there is to see and do in Baku, get to know the city from its earliest footprint with our guide to Baku’s Old City.
When should I go to Baku’s Old City?
If you want to take photos with fewer people, head to the Old City early in the morning – aim for 7am to beat the crowds. Shops, restaurants and historic sites open by around 10am, when the maze-like alleys start to throng with visitors, especially around late September when the Formula One motor race brings thousands of extra visitors to Baku.
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In summer, you might want to avoid being out in the middle of the day, but the Old City is incredibly atmospheric at night, when the lanes are lit up. The warm summer evening air draws out locals and visitors for a post-prandial wander here and along the waterfront Bulvar park.
One of the best times to visit Baku is during Novruz (the spring equinox), when the city is abuzz with people dressed in traditional costume taking part in festive dances, bonfires and performances of traditional songs.
How much time should I spend in Baku’s Old City?
If you only have limited time, it’s possible to glimpse the highlights of the Old City on a two-hour walking tour. However, if you want to explore at your own pace, set aside at least a full day to get lost in the Old City’s alleyways.
This will give you time to visit the major sights (fees apply), admire a mix of incredibly preserved architecture with strong Persian, Ottoman and Russian influences, dine in a historic caravanserai, and go souvenir shopping.
Even better, stay in Baku for a few days and visit the Old City at different times of the day and night. You’ll have more time to experience each major sight (visit on different days, to conserve your energy) and you’ll see more than one side to this thriving historic center.
What’s the best way to see Baku’s Old City?
The best way to see the Old City is on foot. You can explore under your own steam or book a guided tour. The Old City’s grandest entrance is through the hefty double gates that pierce the fortifications at their northeast corner.
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There’s an information center just inside where you can find out about guided walking tours and self-guided audio tours. The old streets are an attraction in their own right and there’s no charge to wander, though some sights charge admission fees, so bring cash (as well as plenty of water to stay hydrated).
Many restaurants and cafes inside the walls are busy with tourists, and, predictably, prices tend to be higher than elsewhere in Baku, but there’s a good selection of places to eat inside the walls, or just beyond the Old City.
Explore the highlights of Baku’s Old City
Among the top sights in the Old City is the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Maiden’s Tower, an ancient tower that is the most recognizable symbol of old Baku. The origins of this cylindrical, eight-storey fortress remain open to debate, but there is a consensus among archaeologists that much of Qız Qalası – literally the “Virgin Tower” – was constructed during the 12th century as a defensive structure.
The fort’s 5m-thick (16.4ft) walls, tiny window slits and the absence of a ground floor entrance made it almost impregnable. The tower is open daily between 10am and 6pm, and each floor can be visited via a spiral staircase leading to the rooftop, where exceptional views of the city await.
From Maiden’s Tower, wander colorfully touristy Zeynallı küç to reach the Cümə (Juma) Mosque, one of the most important religious structures in the Old City. The mosque’s finely decorated, turquoise-hued interior, mosaic-covered dome, and carpet-covered floor stand in stark contrast to the sandstone exterior. Non-Muslims can visit outside of prayer times, but you must be dressed modestly and respect local customs.
Next, pick your way through the Old City’s most lived-in backstreets to reach another UNESCO World Heritage site, showcasing the architectural grandeur of the 15th century. The Palace of the Shirvanshahs was once inhabited by members of a dynasty that ruled over northeastern Azerbaijan, and it is arguably Baku’s most precious piece of medieval architecture.
The palace is split over two floors that once contained 52 rooms, including a royal mosque. Wars and invasions have left only a few of the rooms intact, and many of the Shirvanshahs’ treasures have been looted over the centuries. It’s open from 10am to 6:30pm, with reduced hours in winter.
You’ll want to peek into a few local art galleries, such as QGallery and Zaman, plus unusual gift shops such as Ninka Cards and Gifts, with its unusual collage-based cards. If you are planning to bring home an authentic Azerbaijani carpet, head to the Azerxalca Carpet Showroom, a women-run gallery on Boyuk Qala.
Make sure you leave enough time to visit the free Museum of Miniature Books; displayed in 39 glass cases are thousands of tiny volumes, some as small as a postage stamp, telling stories from nearly 80 countries around the world.
If time allows, it’s worth pre-booking a visit to the Agha Mikayil Hammam, the oldest bathhouse still in operation in Baku. It was completed in the 18th century and you’ll find the entrance on Kichik Qala. As for all hammams in Azerbaijan, Agha Mikayil has a strict gender segregation policy – the bathhouse is open for women on Mondays and Fridays and for men every other day.
Where to eat and drink in Baku’s Old City
For a taste of the atmosphere of the Silk Road era, visit the Old City’s two best-known caravanserais, Multani and Bukhara, dating back to the 15th century. Both have been converted into restaurants serving Azerbaijani cuisine. Another outstanding choice, Galateya has a wide selection of local wines plus mezze (small plates) for all tastes (including vegetarian options).
You can escape the tourist throngs near Maiden’s Tower in the glass-sided rooftop restaurant, Terrace 145, where Azerbaijani classics are complemented by European options and some fusion creations. Muğam Klub is also known for its lively atmosphere and cocktail list.
For something more down-to-earth, Cizz-Bizz serves classic Azerbaijani dishes such as the always popular lamb plov (a fragrant one-pot rice dish), while posh Merci Baku offers French fine-dining surrounded by sumptuous decor. There are also plenty of cafe terraces to stop by, so follow your instincts and grab a sun-drenched table to refuel with tea and delectable pastries whenever the mood takes you.
How to get to Baku’s Old City?
If you’re not staying within walking or cycling distance, the Baku Metro runs to İçərişəhər metro station on the edge of the old city, passing through the 28 May metro station, where trains run to a series of suburban stations. Bus routes are available on www.bakubus.az.
When you exit the pyramid-shaped İçərişəhər metro station building (it looks a bit like the entrance to the Louvre in Paris), the entrance to the walled city is right behind you.
As in many modern cities, bus and metro rides can be paid for using the BakıKart, an electronic card that you load with credit to pay for public transport. All metro stations and the majority of major bus stops have machines where you can buy cards and top them up.
Is Baku’s Old City accessible?
Due to its cobblestones, steps, and hilly terrain, Baku’s Old City is not very accessible for people with mobility or balance challenges. That said, Azerbaijani locals are more than happy to assist if you need help.
This article was adapted from Lonely Planet’s Georgia, Armenia & Azerbaijan guidebook, published in July 2024.
