Tom Heywood and his partner, Laurissa Cook, met at the former Rattle Owl restaurant in Micklegate in York – where Laurissa was restaurant manager and Tom head chef.
They left to pursue their dream and opened Pignut, a restaurant reimagining fine dining in the heart of Helmsley.
Inside Pignut (Image: Supplied)
Located at 12, Bridge Street, Pignut has a commitment to sustainability and innovation at its core using locally sourced produce to create expertly crafted dishes, set in a relaxed, inviting atmosphere.
The compact restaurant seats 14 and Laurissa said: “We’re passionate about the power of local ingredients, the farmers and growers we work with and sustainability.”
Named after a foraged nut which can be found in the area, Pignut has already achieved two rosettes, been featured in the Good Food Guide and is recommended in the Michelin Guide.
In addition, in their first year, 29-year-old Laurissa has won an Acorn Award – which recognises 30 of the UK’s hospitality industry’s most talented stars, aged under 30 and Tom has been shortlisted for the Sustainability Excellence Award at the Craft Guild of Chefs Awards.
Sustainability is at the heart of the business, which also has a zero-waste policy in the kitchen.
Tom and Laurissa source all the ingredients locally. Beef and pork come from Castle Howard, poultry from Easingwold and the pair pick fruit, vegetables, herbs and edible flowers from nearby Helmsley Walled Garden.
The couple invited The Press out to Helmsley to sample their menu and we weren’t disappointed.
The upstairs of the building has been turned into a lounge area where people can enjoy drinks and snacks.
And in the restaurant downstairs the first thing you notice is that every detail is thoroughly thought through, and nothing goes to waste.
We sampled two tasting menus – both priced at £95 – one including meat and fish and the other vegetarian.
It kicked off with ‘wastage’ – a course designed around all the waste from the other courses on the menu which included a refreshing juice shot as well as a delicious pot of mushroom foam topping on a melted blue cheese.
There followed a tasty Castle Howard beef tartare and Newfields beetroot from the veggie menu.
We both enjoyed Helmsley Walled Garden, a light and delicate soup of local greens topped with edible sunflower petals and a cheese quenelle.
Hodgson’s smoked haddock had a curried kick and was served with oats from Food Circle, a cooperative based in York. It tasted like the most creamy risotto you’ve ever had and Laurissa explained the cereal is an ancient variety with no technique for harvesting them mechanically and has to be hand gathered.
We fairly skipped through the courses with the Fountains Gold Cheddar and Soda Bread with Acorn butter needed a bit of an explainer after admitting we couldn’t taste any acorns only to be told it’s the name of the dairy in County Durham and no actual oak fruit were harmed in the making.
My caramelised Hodgson’s Orkney scallop and herb fed chicken was for me the best dish of the night and possibly the best scallop I have ever tasted while, Jordan’s egg from Food Circle had been cooked for an hour and literally melted in the mouth.
The Thirkleby duck with vermouth was the perfect pairing of tender meat and sweet but sharp sauce and Jordan enjoyed the Newlands cauliflower.
There followed a pause before desserts of sharp blackcurrant with a superb fig leaf ice cream and perfectly turned meringue batons.
For Jordan the best was most certainly saved until last – the Moorside mushrooms mousse – yes, a mushroom and coffee dessert which utterly confounded expectations and was a thing of beauty both in looks and texture. Tom really does know his flavours and isn’t afraid to go out on a limb.
We said farewell to Laurissa who couldn’t have been more welcoming throughout – and we’re still talking about the mushroom mousse.
Opening hours at Pignut are Wednesday and Thursday with the tasting menu from 6.30pm; Friday and Saturday lunch from 12.30pm and dinner from 6pm – 9pm and the dinner tasting menu from 6.30pm with the restaurant closed on Sunday, Monday and Tuesday.
To book at Pignut go to info@restaurantpignut.co.uk
