There’s an ongoing debate among watch enthusiasts about which complication (any function on a watch that goes beyond telling the time) is the most useful. Is it the GMT for travelers? Or the chronograph for timing specific events? Maybe it’s the “count-up” diving bezel; though some don’t consider it a true complication, that is the most practical extra feature on a watch. This debate will likely persist long after we’re gone, buried with our Submariners and Seikos.
However, certain men’s watch brands are constantly innovating, offering new takes on these classic complications—sometimes even combining them in unique ways. These innovations result in some of the most exciting and appealing timepieces on the market.
Here are four of the watches men are talking about right now…
#1. Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Geographic
Part of La Grande Maison’s dive-inspired Polaris collection, this watch features a second timezone using a system that combines elements of both GMT and world time. It also includes a day/night indicator, a power reserve indicator, and an internal rotating dive bezel, all packed into a sleek case just 11.54 millimeters thick.
Although the Geographic system itself isn’t new, its integration into a Polaris case is. Let’s take a closer look at how it works: instead of a fourth GMT hand from the center, there’s a small 24-hour indicator between 8 and 9 o’clock that also serves as a day/night indicator. At the bottom of the dial, an indicator points to a rotating disk displaying 24 city names. The wearer can set the alternate time zone using the crown, which adjusts the 24-hour indicator or aligns it with one of the city names to show the correct time. While this setup doesn’t display all city names simultaneously like a traditional world timer, it creates a cleaner dial layout.
The watch features an “ocean grey” lacquer dial, achieved through 35 layers of lacquer, which also houses a power reserve indicator for the automatic Calibre 939. The signature inner rotating bezel of the Polaris collection is adjustable via a secondary crown at 10 o’clock. Small orange accents highlight key timing information, and the watch comes with two interchangeable straps—a textured black rubber and a blue-gray canvas—making it versatile for both formal and casual settings.
The Geographic is part of a revamped Polaris collection, which now includes a new Date version and a Perpetual Calendar with the same striking ocean-grey dial. Priced at $16,100, the Polaris Geographic is a luxury watch, situated between the Rolex GMT-Master II and the Cosmograph Daytona in terms of cost. It is complex, well-crafted, and features an in-house movement assembled at JLC’s facilities in the Vallée de Joux, making it a timepiece likely to stand out in any collection.
#2. Absinthe by Massena LAB and Raúl Pagès
If you’ve been into watch collecting for a while, you’ve probably heard of William Massena. He’s a well-known collector, former auction house executive, and ex-Timezone forum moderator, among other roles. Now, he runs his own brand, Massena LAB, where he collaborates with other famous men’s and women’s watch brands to create amazing timepieces. His latest creation, called “Absinthe,” is an evolution of a recent piece made in partnership with independent watchmaker Raúl Pagès.
This $9000 watch is inspired by the unique Patek Philippe ref. 2458, originally made for renowned collector J. B. Champion, Jr. It features a 38.5mm stainless steel case and a beautifully finished, hand-wound movement, caliber M690, designed by Massena and Pagès. The watch has a striking green ombré dial with a vertical brushed finish, inspired by the “Green Fairy,” and is signed “Observatory Precision.” As an added bonus, those who want can send their watch to the HSNY Chronometer Certification Program for testing, for an additional fee.
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#3. H. Moser Streamliner Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton Alpine Limited Edition Pink Livery
H. Moser’s newest creation, which we’ll now call the “Pink Livery,” is a special edition celebrating the 2024 Miami Grand Prix. It’s done in the colors of Alpine F1 and its partner BWT. This is the second limited edition in this series. For those familiar with Moser, the Pink Livery will look familiar except for its new color scheme. It features a 42.3mm stainless steel cushion case with 120m water resistance.
Inside, it’s powered by the fully skeletonized, automatic HMC 811 movement, which includes a one-minute flying tourbillon and an in-house cylindrical hairspring. The main plate and bridges have an anthracite coating, contrasting with a skeletonized, gold oscillating weight. The standout feature of this $100,000 watch is the translucent, bright pink main dial at 12 o’clock, paired with a matching rubber strap. Limited to just 20 pieces, it’s definitely the funkiest racing watch we’ve ever seen in a long time.
#4. Byrne Gyro Dial Meca 36mm
Watch restoration expert John Byrne launched his own watch brand for men in 2021, inspired by a show at the Paris Opéra. His Gyro Dial watches have unique faces with four rotating cube indices that turn 90 degrees at midnight, noon, or when you interact with the crown. This feature makes it look like four different watches in one. His latest model, the Gyro Dial Meca 36mm, has a slimmer case, a smaller size, and a new hand-wound movement. It also features a stunning dial with the brand’s signature rotating cubes.
The $28,000 watch comes in a hand-finished, tonneau-shaped Grade 5 titanium case that is 36 mm in diameter, with the crown positioned at 12 o’clock, inspired by vintage pocket watches. The rhodium-plated “Meteorized Blue” dial has rotating cube indices, and the exposed main plate allows you to see more of the watch’s mechanics. Unique and beautifully crafted, the Gyro Dial Meca 36mm is an impressive achievement for a brand that’s only three years old.
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Featured image: Essential Hommes
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